Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Sauteed Artichokes in Olive Oil

This was the second thing I made last week that demonstrated quite well that my smoke alarm works. I got it from here.

Preparation requires removing the fibrous undeveloped petals (the “choke”) and some tough, sharp central leaves, in addition to the inedible outer leaves. I will give step by step prep instructions, but after doing a couple you will find it is not difficult. When buying, look for the artichokes’ leaves to be tightly closed; those with leaves pulled away and opening will have more waste. They should be medium green with minimal discoloration and should feel heavy for their size.

1 large artichoke per person for a generous serving
Extra virgin olive oil
Fresh lemon juice to taste, plus ½ lemon for every 3-4 artichokes
Sea or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Dry white wine (approximately ¼ cup for 3-4 artichokes)
1 clove garlic, sliced thin for 3-4 artichokes (optional)

To a bowl large enough to hold the sliced artichokes add cold water to 1/3 full and add the juice from ½ lemon for every 3-4 artichokes (acidified water prevents the slices from discoloring).Cut the stem from the artichoke. Trim and discard the browned end and peel or slice away the green skin. Slice the stem into 1/8 inch pieces and place into the bowl.

Lay the artichoke on its side and, using a serrated knife or a very sharp chef’s knife, remove the top 1/3 and discard. Stand the artichoke on its cut end (stem side up) and, using the chef’s knife, make slicing motions which follow the contour of the artichoke to remove the tough outside leaves. The knife starts almost flat on the wide stem end of the artichoke and gradually turns vertically as it moves forward and down along the leaves. Continue around the artichoke until all the dark, tougher material is removed. Trim the stem end of all dark green skin. The finished artichoke should have a light green to yellow-green color and the remaining leaves should be tender.

Halve the trimmed artichoke vertically through the stem end. In the middle above the solid heart is the furry choke, as well as some small triangular white or purple white leaves with sharp points. Scrape under them with a grapefruit spoon or melon baller until the choke and these leaves are removed. You may have to pull out some of the small central leaves by hand.

Turn the artichoke half, cut side down, and slice vertically into thin slices. Place the slices into the acidified water. Prepare remaining artichokes.

Choose a sauté pan large enough to hold the slices in a thin layer and heat over medium-high heat. When oil shimmers, drain the artichoke slices and add to the pan along with the garlic. Cook, shaking the pan and stirring, until some of the slices are slightly browned and the slices are starting to soften.

Pour in white wine and cook, scraping the pan, until reduced to a glaze. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste and cook for a minute or two. The slices should be somewhat firm when finished. Taste and correct seasoning; serve immediately or cool and reheat briefly if serving later.

This preparation is actually quite simple after a little practice, and you will find that sautéed artichokes are versatile, as described above. I like to sauté thin strips because they are done within minutes, in contrast to preparations which cook them whole or halved. They can, however, be cooked as halves or quarters in the same manner, although a lower temperature and longer cooking time is required to prevent burning. It is also helpful to start them covered until partially cooked, then uncover for browning.

In a season when few quality green vegetables are available, take advantage of fresh artichokes which can be adapted to many winter menus.

RESULTS: I think this one just takes some practice. Trimming the artichoke was tricky. I was sort of fighting with myself the whole time to take off enough vs. taking off too much and missing some delicious delicious artichoke meat. It was also quite difficult to time the cooking right, to get it browned and tender but not burnt. I would err on the side of a low temperature and work your way up. The pieces that weren't burnt to a twig-like state were quite delicious.

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